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Tudor Chronograph 79280 (1995–early 2000s): Specs and Price

Tudor Chronograph 79280

Tudor Chronograph 79280 hero image

The steel-bezel Small Block chronograph whose unchanging reference number hides Tudor's slow break from Rolex parts.

Production
1995–early 2000s
Case
Stainless steel
Diameter
40 mm
Thickness
~14 mm
Bezel
Fixed steel, engraved tachymeter
Crystal
Sapphire
Movement
Cal. 7750 (ETA/Valjoux)
Jewels
25
Power reserve
~40–44h
Pushers
Screw-down
Crown
Screw-down
Lume
Tritium

The Tudor Chronograph 79280 was produced from 1995 to the early 2000s.

Production years
1995–early 2000s
Replaced
79180
Movement
Cal. 7750 (ETA/Valjoux)
Price
Indicative median ≈ $3,200

The Tudor Chronograph 79280 is the watch in which Tudor's reliance on Rolex can be seen running out within a single reference number. The digits never changed, because they encode only the bezel (the final "80" means the engraved steel tachymeter bezel), but everything around them did: early examples carry an OYSTERDATE dial and may retain a Rolex-signed crown or case back, while later ones read PRINCE DATE and generally lack Rolex-signed hardware. Tudor's own history places a 79280 in 1995, at the start of the Small Block generation that replaced the thicker Big Block 79180 with a sapphire crystal and a slimmer case, and the series was the last and most technically advanced of the Oysterdate chronographs. No single date marks the handover of parts. Collectors read it from surviving watches, which show a late-1990s stretch in which dial wording, crown and case back do not always agree. That is why the reference rewards attention to configuration over the number itself, and why a correct, coherent example is worth more than a merely clean one.

“One reference number, one bezel, and a Rolex-to-Tudor handover written across the dial, crown and case back.”

Production timeline

Tudor Chronograph 79280 production years: 1995–early 2000s

The 79280 arrived in 1995 as part of the Small Block generation, which Tudor's own history documents. Against the Big Block 79180 it brought a sapphire crystal in place of acrylic and a slimmer case, though Tudor's reason for the redesign is not documented in the available material. The dial wording changed from OYSTERDATE to PRINCE DATE during the late 1990s, and the Rolex-signed hardware faded out over the same stretch. Neither handover has a published cause or a universally accepted date. The range of c. 1997–2000 on the strip is therefore an approximation drawn from surviving watches, not a factory record. Bracelets moved on their own schedule: the series began on steel Oyster bracelets, a five-link Jubilee-style bracelet arrived for the chronographs around 2000, and leather straps on a Tudor deployment clasp came later in the Small Block period. The end of production is unsettled too. Tudor's overview gives 1995 to 2000, and serial guides and dealer listings run into the 2000s, with one specialist table stretching to about 2008. The discrepancy likely reflects continued sales and serial-based dating, so 2000 is not safe to treat as a hard cutoff. Within a single reference number, the dial wording, hardware, bracelet and lume all changed independently, while the bezel digits never moved.

  1. 1995
    Small Block launch
    Engraved steel tachymeter bezel, sapphire crystal
  2. 1995
    Oysterdate dials
    Rolex-signed crown or case back possible
  3. c. 1996 – 2000
    Prince Date handover
    Dial text; Tudor-signed crown and case back
  4. c. 2000
    Jubilee-style bracelet
    Five-link Tudor Jubilee-style bracelet
  5. 2000
    Tudor's cited end
    Prince Date dials on early-2000s examples
How to tell it apart

79280 against its neighbours

The 79180 is the Big Block predecessor that the 79280 replaced, and the 79260 and 79270 are the Small Block siblings that differ from it chiefly in the bezel. Together they show that the final two digits of the reference identify the bezel, while the era of the case shows up in the middle digits.

79180
Predecessor (Big Block)
c. 1989–c. 1995
79260
Same-generation sibling
1995–early 2000s
79270
Same-generation sibling
1995–early 2000s
This reference
79280
Tudor · focal
1995–early 2000s
Production1989–19951995–early 2000s1995–early 2000s1995–early 2000s
CaseSteel, thicker Big BlockSteel, Small BlockSteel, Small BlockStainless steel
BezelFixed steel tachymeterFixed black tachymeter insertRotating black 12-hourFixed steel, engraved tachymeter
CrystalAcrylicSapphireSapphireSapphire
MovementValjoux 7750Valjoux 7750Valjoux 7750Cal. 7750 (ETA/Valjoux)
Dial and hardware variants

11 dial and hardware variants across the run

The first Small Block dials read OYSTERDATE, and Tudor's own 1995 example pairs that wording with a white enamel-type dial and black counters, so it announces itself as the generation's opening look. Early examples may also retain a Rolex-signed crown or case back, but the two traits are separate observations. The word on the dial does not guarantee the hardware beneath it.

Buying guide

What to check before buying a 79280

The risk in buying a 79280 is coherence, not scarcity: because the reference is comparatively plentiful, buyers can afford to wait for a correct, unpolished example instead of accepting a mismatched one. Replacement dials, swapped bezels and mixed-period hardware are the usual faults, and the reference number itself guarantees none of them away. At 40 mm and roughly 14 mm thick, with substantial screw-down pushers, it is a chronograph with real wrist presence. It is also the last Oysterdate-era chronograph generation, so a correct one is a compact record of Tudor's own turn. A normal example in good condition generally sits at a mid-four-figure price.

Check the bezel

The 79280 has a fixed steel bezel with an engraved tachymetric scale. The scale should be sharp and correctly cut. A different bezel suggests a swap or a different reference, not a rarer variant.

Read the dial and hardware together

Check that the dial wording, crown and case back belong to the same period. Look for reluming, moisture damage, incorrect fonts, misaligned printing and a date wheel inconsistent with the dial era. Patina is not the same as damage.

Judge the case for polishing

Sharp lugs, intact brushing, crisp bezel engraving and clear case-back markings carry the premium. Blunt lugs and softened edges reduce value, and corrosion or damaged threads are more serious than ordinary wear.

Test the chronograph

Check start, stop and reset, hand alignment at zero, the elapsed-time registers, date change, winding and any excess rotor noise. A recent service receipt helps but does not prove originality.

Verify bracelet and completeness

Oyster, Jubilee-style and leather-strap configurations are all documented. Check that the bracelet, end links and clasp match the case and period. Papers, box and service history raise value when they agree with the watch.

Use a specialist

Tudor's historical material shows the reference's broad identifiers but does not authenticate an individual watch. Have a watchmaker who knows Tudor chronographs inspect the movement and case, including for moisture, before paying.

Every watch sold on Grey Market goes through this kind of inspection, hands-on, before it ships to the buyer. More in our FAQ

Price and value

Tudor Chronograph 79280 price and value

A Tudor Chronograph 79280 sells for about $3,200 at the median, typically $2,300 to $4,200 across 20 comparable sales.

Live · Grey Market

Tudor Chronograph 79280 for sale

Indicative figures from recent dealer, auction, and Grey Market sales (updated this week). Every watch is verified before it sells here.

Median
≈ $3,200
Typical range
$2,300–$4,200
Comparables
20
Confidence
B
AuctionDealer

Each point is a recent dealer or auction sale, banded to an indicative figure. The range shown is not a valuation.

Grey Market runs watch auctions for vintage and neo-vintage pieces, every lot reviewed before it lists and verified before the seller is paid, and the Watch Exchange, where ID-verified users buy and sell at a fixed price. Selling one? See the ways to sell a Tudor, or check what it’s worth. For more vintage Tudor, see the Tudor reference guide.

Similar references

Adjacent in the Chronograph family

Frequently asked

Common questions about the 79280

The Tudor Chronograph 79280 was produced from 1995 to the early 2000s. Tudor's own overview gives 1995 to 2000, while serial guides and dealer listings run into the 2000s, and one specialist table stretches to about 2008. The siblings 79260 and 79270 are grouped over the same broad span, and the predecessor 79180 ran 1989–1995.